Personal Loan Calculator
Calculate a personal loan payment, and then the number lenders do not advertise: what the loan actually costs once an origination fee is taken out of the proceeds. A 12% loan with a 5% fee is not a 12% loan, and this calculator works out the effective rate so you can compare offers on the same basis.
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EstimateThis calculator provides estimates for educational and informational purposes only. It does not constitute financial, investment, legal, accounting, or tax advice. Results are based on the assumptions and information entered and may differ materially from actual outcomes. Tax rules and financial regulations can change. Consult an appropriately qualified professional for advice specific to your situation.
Advertised rates are the rates offered to the strongest applicants. The rate you are offered depends on your credit history, income and the lender's own model. Get a written offer before planning around a number.
- Monthly payment, total interest and total repaid from the amount, rate and term.
- Origination fees handled properly — deducted from proceeds or financed, whichever your lender does.
- The effective annual cost including the fee, solved from the actual cash flows.
- A term comparison table showing the payment-versus-total-cost trade-off.
How a personal loan is priced
A personal loan is a fixed-rate instalment loan: you borrow a lump sum and repay it in equal monthly payments over a set term. There is no revolving balance and no minimum-payment trap, which is a real advantage over a credit card.
The payment comes from the same annuity formula that governs a mortgage:
M = P × [ i(1 + i)^n ] / [ (1 + i)^n − 1 ] M = monthly payment P = amount financed i = annual rate ÷ 12 n = number of monthly payments
On $15,000 at 12.5% over five years, that is $337.51 a month, $5,251 of total interest, and $20,251 repaid.
Most personal loans are unsecured, meaning nothing is pledged as collateral. That is why the rates sit well above mortgage and auto rates: the lender's only recourse if you stop paying is your credit file and, ultimately, the courts.
Why an origination fee changes the rate
Many personal lenders charge an origination fee of 1% to 8%, and most deduct it from the money they send you. You sign for $15,000 at 12.5%, $750 is withheld as a 5% fee, and $14,250 arrives in your account. But your payments are calculated on the full $15,000.
You are therefore paying $337.51 a month for sixty months in exchange for $14,250 of cash. That is not a 12.5% loan. Solving for the rate that reconciles the actual cash received with the actual payments made gives roughly 14.6%.
Solve for r: cash received = Σ payment / (1 + r/12)^t for t = 1 to n The r that balances this equation is the true cost of the borrowing.
This calculator solves that equation using a bisection method, which is why it can report an effective rate rather than just repeating the quoted one. Enter the origination fee under Advanced and the figure appears in your results.
This is precisely what the APR disclosure is meant to capture, and it is why comparing offers by APR rather than by interest rate is the right approach. Lenders that advertise a low interest rate alongside a high origination fee are relying on people comparing the wrong number.
The term trade-off
Extending the term lowers the payment and raises the total cost. Both effects are large.
| Term on $15,000 at 12.5% | Monthly payment | Total interest |
|---|---|---|
| 2 years | $710 | $2,041 |
| 3 years | $502 | $3,072 |
| 5 years | $338 | $5,251 |
| 7 years | $266 | $7,343 |
Going from two years to seven roughly halves the payment and more than triples the interest. Lenders often present the longest term first, because the monthly figure looks most comfortable.
A useful discipline: choose the shortest term whose payment you could still meet if your income dropped. Then, if you want more room, pay extra voluntarily rather than committing to a longer term — you get the low required payment as a safety net and the short effective term when things go well.
Using a personal loan to consolidate credit card debt
This is the most common use, and it can work well. Converting 24% revolving debt into a 12% instalment loan with a fixed end date lowers the rate and imposes a schedule. Two conditions have to hold.
The total cost has to actually be lower. Compare total cost against total cost, including the origination fee, not rate against rate. A 12% loan with a 6% fee over seven years can easily cost more than clearing the cards in three years at 24%. Run both — this calculator and the Credit Card Payoff calculator — and compare the total repaid figures.
The cards have to stay at zero. This is where consolidation most often fails. The loan clears the balances, the credit lines sit empty and available, and within a year there are new card balances alongside the loan. The household now has more debt than before at a higher blended rate. If you know this is a risk, closing the cards — accepting the credit-score effect — may be the safer choice.
Before you borrow: the alternatives worth checking
- A credit union. Frequently the lowest rates available on unsecured personal loans, often with no origination fee. Membership is usually easy to obtain.
- A 0% balance transfer, if the debt is on cards and you can clear it inside the promotional window. Cheaper than any personal loan when it works.
- A home equity loan or line, if you own a home. Much lower rates, because the debt is secured — but that security is your house, and converting unsecured debt into secured debt raises the stakes of not paying considerably.
- A 401(k) loan. Low rate and you pay interest to yourself, but the money is out of the market while borrowed, and if you leave your job the balance may become due quickly or be treated as a distribution. Genuinely a last resort rather than a clever trick.
- Not borrowing. For a discretionary purchase, the honest comparison is between borrowing now and saving for a few months. The Compound Interest calculator shows what the interest saved would be worth if invested instead.
What to avoid entirely: payday and title lending, where effective annual rates commonly run into the hundreds of percent, and where the structure is designed around rollover rather than repayment.
Common mistakes
Comparing interest rates instead of APRs. The APR includes the origination fee. The interest rate does not. Two loans quoted at the same rate can differ by two full percentage points of real cost.
Borrowing the full amount offered. Lenders frequently approve more than you asked for. Borrow what you need.
Accepting the longest term because the payment looks affordable. Covered above. The monthly figure is the number lenders lead with precisely because it hides the total.
Not checking for a prepayment penalty. Most reputable personal lenders charge none, but confirm it before assuming you can pay early without cost. The calculator lets you model one if yours has one.
Applying to many lenders at once without checking for pre-qualification. Most lenders offer a soft-pull pre-qualification that shows your likely rate without affecting your credit score. Use those to shortlist, then submit a formal application only to the one you choose.
Frequently asked questions
Rates vary widely with credit profile, loan size, term and lender, and they move with the wider rate environment. The useful comparison is not against a national figure but against your own alternatives: the rate on the debt you would be replacing, and what a credit union will offer you. Always compare APR rather than interest rate, so origination fees are included.
It is a fee for processing the loan, commonly 1% to 8% of the amount, usually deducted from the money you receive. Many credit unions and some banks charge none. Where it exists, it raises the true cost of borrowing above the quoted interest rate — enter it above and the calculator shows the effective annual cost.
The application creates a hard inquiry and a new account, both of which typically cause a small, temporary dip. Over time the effect is often positive: adding an instalment loan diversifies your credit mix, and if the loan clears revolving card balances your utilisation ratio falls, which usually helps. Payment history matters most, so paying on time is what determines the long-run effect.
Usually yes, and most reputable lenders charge no penalty — but check your agreement rather than assuming. Where prepayment is allowed, paying extra reduces total interest, and the calculator models both extra monthly payments and a one-time early payoff. If a penalty does apply, enter it and the calculator will show whether the interest saved still exceeds it.
For a balance you will carry for more than a few months, a personal loan is usually cheaper: the rate is lower and the fixed term forces the balance down. For a short-term need you can clear inside a card's grace period, the card costs nothing. For an existing card balance, compare the total cost of consolidating against the total cost of an aggressive payoff plan — the answer is not always the loan.
Lenders assess income, credit history and existing debt. Common maximums run from $1,000 up to $50,000 or more depending on the lender and your profile. The more useful question is how much you should borrow: a payment you can meet comfortably if your income fell, over the shortest term you can manage.